Climbing Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc, together with the Eiger and the Matterhorn is one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, it is also the highest at 4807m (15,800 ft)
Unlike the Eiger or Matterhorn, climbing Mont Blanc is possible with basic mountaineering skills which can be learned as part of a training week with the Mont Blanc climb at the end. The week comprises of 4 days training and acclimatisation followed by 3 days for the ascent itself.
The ascent is physically tough, so you need to be prepared for that, but the sense of achievement is immense. As a guide, many clients who have also climbed Kilimanjaro reckon Mont Blanc is tougher. Mont Blanc is very definitely a climb (not a walk) and the ascent usually involves a summit day of 12 hours or more. To make the climb successfully you will need the skills of walking and easy climbing in crampons, and using an ice axe. During the ascent you will be roped for climbing, or for walking on a glacier, for most of the time.
On the summit
There are 2 main routes that we use to climb Mont Blanc, the Gouter route and the Cosmiques route (also called The 3 Monts route).
The easiest is normally the Gouter route, depending on conditions. It requires some easy climbing or scrambling in the lower part , helped at times by some fixed wires, to reach the Gouter Refuge. Above the Gouter hut it's a more gentle climb across a glacier, which finally narrows into a sharp and exposed snow ridge leading to the top. Check out the photo gallery for some images of this route.
The Cosmiques route involves climbing some steep snow and ice slopes as you ascend from the Cosmiques refuge over Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and finally to mont Blanc. There is often a short section (about 60-70m) of 45-50 degree ice climbing to pass the shoulder of Mont Maudit.
Check out the Cosmiques route photo gallery for images of this route.
Both routes require good acclimatisation for a successful ascent.
The Gouter refuge, perched at 3800m on Mont Blanc
Itinerary for Mont Blanc 7 day course.
Day 1 - Travel day. Meet at our hotel base early evening for intros, gear check and a chat about the week.
Day 2 - Take a lift to a glacier area, such as the Mer de Glace or the Grands Montets, and spend the day learning or practising ice craft and ropework. Return to the hotel.
Day 3 - Pack up and set off on a 2 night trip away from the valley. This will involve either a short road journey followed by a hut walk, or a cable car ride to a glacier and hut approach from there. Bring your own packed lunch, a 3 course dinner will be provided in the hut.
Day 4 - An early start, (4 or 5 am), to climb a training peak or high pass. This will involve climbing in groups of 3 or 4, roped up on the glacier, and will also involve some roped scrambling or easy climbing. Descent to, either the same mountain hut, or a second mountain hut nearby. Evening meal and night spent at the hut.
Day 5 - Another early start. A shorter day, but this will hopefully include a second training peak or pass, before we make our way back to valley by midday/early afternoon. Return to the hotel for a quiet evening.
Day 6 - Our Mont Blanc ascent starts here. Pack and leave the hotel for 2 nights. We meet around 9am and set off to Les Houches from where a cable car and a short mountain train ride take us part of the way. Then we continue on foot, along a sometimes steep rocky path and then a short glacier, to the Tete Rousse hut (3-5 hours depending on how far the train is running). This is as 3100m and is in a spectacular position overlooking the valley. Dinner in the hut and early to bed.
Day 7 - When we have breakfast will depend on the weather, but it could be 3 am or 7am! if the weather is good we will go for a 3am start and go for the summit in one long day. The first 2 hours in the dark are spent climbing a rocky ridge (Scrambing grade 1-2) to the Gouter hut, which is perched on the edge of the Aiguille du Gouter (3800m). Here we stop for a quick break and some food before setting off on the route to the summit.
The route from here is easier walking on snow across a glacier. 2-3 hours above the Gouter we reach the narrow Bosses ridge which leads more steeply for the last 1-2 hours to the top. (4810m) After summit photos we set off back down, stopping at the Gouter hut for the night. (8-10 hours total)
Day 8 - After a 7am breakfast we start down the rocky ridge, past the Tete Rousse and back to the train. Back at the hotel by mid afternoon to enjoy showers, food, and a celebratory drink (but in what order!)
Day 9 - Travel home.
**NB**
This is a sample itinerary for THE GOUTER ROUTE, and one which we could often stick to, BUT, it may well be slightly different - for example we may go all the way to the Gouter hut on day 6, or may descend all the way to the Tete Rousse on day 7. Or we may even opt to climb or descend via the Cosmiques route. The reason for this is a combination of weather and conditions but also the hut reservations we are able to make on this popular route. In any event we will tailor the itinerary to offer the best chance of success based on the given conditions.
FAQ
What do I need to bring?
Consult our comprehensive gear list
What if I come and acclimatise on my own and just want a guide for the Mont Blanc ascent?
- We find that people are often not able to acclimatise successfully on their own, also there are some important training elements in the first 4 days which are essential to attend to before going to Mont Blanc. For experienced mountaineers we are happy that 3 days training may be adequate, but this is the exception rather than the rule. It is for this reason that we only accept clients for Mont Blanc ascents as part of a 6-7 day package.
It's tiring but it's worth it!
Ric was on TV guiding a party up to the top of Mont Blanc, this is a good overview of some of the preparation and the summit days.
